Finished Garments

Reflective Essay

At the beginning of the module when I was given Moncler to design for I didn't know anything about the brand so I began researching. Firstly, I visited the Moncler website and was quite disappointed at what I saw - a range of plastic coats and ski wear. However, I soon became enthusiastic about the brand when I found out about Moncler 'Gamme Rouge', the luxury couture line, and I knew that this was the range that I wanted to design for.
Although I really don't like presenting I was glad that I did it as the only way to become better at presenting is by having more practice, and I do think that I have improved a lot since the begiinning of the degree. I really enjoyed listening to presentations from my fellow students as I learnt a lot about different designers and it was also good to see what other people in my class were doing and how they had interpreted their designers work and put part of themselves into it.
Although I really didn't enjoy the design development classes as I like to take time over my work and I am a perfectionist, it did help me develop my own style so for that reason I am quite glad that we had to do them.
I am pleased with the work that I have produced and I am looking forward to showing my work at the catwalk show and celebrating everyones hard work. This module is also the first time that I have been to FABPAD for a digital print and I must say, after all of deliberating, I am so pleased that I got it done and I also think that it works really well for my designer. This is something that I will definitely use again, although probably not until my final year because it is very expensive! If I was to go back in time then I may not have fixed all of the gems onto the hip panels of my garment as this took me hours! But I am very happy with the result so I think it was worth it. I also think that I need to manage my time better, although I always seem to be doing uni work I was still rushing to get everything finished at the end, I think this is probably because I left a lot of bits and bobs to the last minute which ended up building up.
Overall I think that I have worked to my best ability during this module and I always enjoy the challeng, I enjoyed researching for my collection and I am happy with my final outfit.

Finalised Diffusion Range

Moncler City is a diffusion line from Moncler's Autumn/Winter 2009 collection 'Empower my Dreams' inspired by armour and jellyfish prints. The range is kept cheaper than the couture range by using less expensive fabrics and screen printing rather than digital printing.

/

Final Collection Range Plan

Final Jacket and Trousers

This is the outfit that I am making showing the digital print on the jacket. The sleeves are made of cotton velvet and the print is on silk viscose satin. The trousers are made from wool and the strips are made from the same velvet as the sleeves.

Fashion Illustration

This is my fashion illustration of my final garments, I've drawn it using ink and changed the colours and added the print in photoshop. I am pleased with the way it looks because in the past I have overloaded my illustrations with too much detail, less is more!!!

Diffusion Range - Moncler City

MONCLER CITY

Toiles on Model

Luckily the garments fit my models really well, I just need to make some minor adjustments to my pattern before I cut them out of the real fabric.

Jacket Working Drawing

Trousers Working Drawing

Gems!

These are the gems that I will be putting onto the hip panels of my jacket. I have ordered 5000 of them!

Final Digital Print

After much deliberation, this is the print that I will be using on my jacket. I have put in an order for 1 metre printed onto silk viscose satin. I chose this fabric as it is the stiffest silk available in the FAB PAD where I ordered it and this is important as it is for a jacket so it needs to be thick. It also has a shine to it which is what I wanted, I am collecting it on Friday so I will upload the result soon!

Moncler Gamme Rouge Fall 2010

PARIS — “I love this moment of cleaning up the silhouette and finding the new,” said Giambattista Valli of the white balaclava-covered head to fur-booted toe of the Space Age outfits he created for Moncler Gamme Rouge.

Valli presented his designs just beside The Ritz in Paris. Looks were both futuristic and luxe, with several vignettes showcasing a variety of silhouettes. Fuzzy white jackets were lined up on identical mannequins, while a detailed orange puffer was highlighted in a vault. Short grey numbers were adorned with scale-like paillettes, while black coat dresses were enhanced with pleated adornments.

I didn't know what to expect when I searched for Moncler Gamme Rouge' latest collection when it reached the Internet, however I was pleasantly surprised. Valli has added knitwear to the label and the collection has an overall more sporty look than his previous collections. It is interesting to see the different routes Valli and I have taken for the new collection, where I have opted for a more couture look. However, there are still elements of couture in Valli's collection, the jackets that he has adored in sequins; similar to what I am doing on the hip panels of my tailored jacket which I will be covering in gems.

Toiling Continued...

I have finished my jacket toile, having come up with a shape that I am happy with. I intend to digitally print the front and hip panels of the jacket on a thick silk satin and the collar and hip bands will be made out of either silk velvet or cotton velvet. I have also started to toile my trousers. I started by making up the basic toile and then cutting out strips of paper which I then pinned onto the trousers in various positions at different lengths until I was happy with the way that they looked. I then drew on the strip that goes all the way around the legs from the thighs to the ankles. I then took the toile apart, drew out the pattern pieces and loosely stitched them together so I could begin inserting the bands of calico. Once I had done this I sewed the strips into the seams, however I was not happy with the overall look as the bands were too loose. I cut and pinned them back then re-inserted them into my trousers. I intend to make the trousers out of a woven wool and the strips out of the same fabric as the hip panels and collar on the tailored jacket.

National Portrait Gallery

Sir Kenelm Digby
1640
Sir Anthony Van Dyck

Philip II, King of Spain
1580
Unknown artist


King Charles I
1613
Daniel Mytens

Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl of Southampton

1618

Daniel Mytens

A visit to the National Portrait Gallery has given me new ideas for my jacket. Whilst at the gallery I viewed paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries. I was drawn to the paintings that consisted of armour - it was the hard, body forming shapes that caught my attention, along with the gold and cut-out details. I particularly like the painting of Philip II which has given me new ideas for a shaped hem at the bottom of my jacket. The clothes that King Charles are wearing look luxurious and I really LOVE the jacket that he is wearing - the hard shaping, the cut-out and embroidered details and overall regal look.