Friday

Toiling Continued...




I have finished my jacket toile, having come up with a shape that I am happy with. I intend to digitally print the front and hip panels of the jacket on a thick silk satin and the collar and hip bands will be made out of either silk velvet or cotton velvet. I have also started to toile my trousers. I started by making up the basic toile and then cutting out strips of paper which I then pinned onto the trousers in various positions at different lengths until I was happy with the way that they looked. I then drew on the strip that goes all the way around the legs from the thighs to the ankles. I then took the toile apart, drew out the pattern pieces and loosely stitched them together so I could begin inserting the bands of calico. Once I had done this I sewed the strips into the seams, however I was not happy with the overall look as the bands were too loose. I cut and pinned them back then re-inserted them into my trousers. I intend to make the trousers out of a woven wool and the strips out of the same fabric as the hip panels and collar on the tailored jacket.

National Portrait Gallery


Sir Kenelm Digby
1640
Sir Anthony Van Dyck

Philip II, King of Spain
1580
Unknown artist


King Charles I
1613
Daniel Mytens


Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl of Southampton
1618
Daniel Mytens

A visit to the National Portrait Gallery has given me new ideas for my jacket. Whilst at the gallery I viewed paintings from the 16th and 17th centuries. I was drawn to the paintings that consisted of armour - it was the hard, body forming shapes that caught my attention, along with the gold and cut-out details. I particularly like the painting of Philip II which has given me new ideas for a shaped hem at the bottom of my jacket. The clothes that King Charles are wearing look luxurious and I really LOVE the jacket that he is wearing - the hard shaping, the cut-out and embroidered details and overall regal look.

Toile 2


After deciding that I wanted to change the shape of my toile I have been experimenting with ways in which to make my jacket more volumous with a subtle look to armour. I have added a hip panel which I think will work well with my theme as I have added 3-dimensional 'hip guards' around them. I have ruffled calico and pinned it onto the hips which I would make out of blue chiffon to echo my underwater theme, however I don't love what I have done here and I think that something simpler will be more effective on this jacket, especially as I am planning on printing and embellishing it-after all as I have been told many times in the past - less is more!!! So I am going to experiment with the hip panels and adapt the basic shape of the jacket.

Experimenting with Prints



Although I really like the colour of the previous print I have been experimenting with the same print in different colours and compositions. I have made up a basic toile and printed the images onto fabric and sewn the fronts together to see what it looks like. I prefer the white background, however I am not convinced on the shape of the jacket. I have changed the shape since I decided what I would like to make, making it longer and less volumous. I think that I will change the shape quite dramatically however the toile with the prints on has given me an idea of what a digital print would look like if I was to have it all over. I still think that I prefer the black and white images so I will probably stick with those colours and embellish the 3-dimensional panels which I intend to add with blue beads.

Black and White Print Idea


After experimenting with converting the print ideas that I came up with previously to grayscale this is my favourite and I think I will digitally print it onto my jacket. To keep the vibrant blues in my outfit I am going to use embellishment.

Digital Prints


I have been contemplating whether or not to digitally print part or all of my jacket so I have been looking at ways in which some of my favourite designers; Valentino and Alexnader McQueen, have used digitals prints to enhance their designs. I love McQueen's corresponding digitally printed jacket and trousers, however I think I will only digitally print one of my garments as I don't want this to be an over-riding feature, more of an added detail. I like the inky blue-blacks against white which both designers have used in these garments and this has really inspired me to do something similar on my own garment. I have already experimented a lot with different prints-manipulated images of jellyfish which I will convert to black and white to see how they look.

Gareth Pugh ss09


I have looked at Gareth Pugh's Spring/Summer 2009 collection which I discoved was inspired by Richard Sweeney's paper art which I looked at at the beginning of the project. The 3-Dimensional shapes in this collection have inspired a lot of my designs. I really like the innovative, structural silhouttes Pugh has created.