Alexander Mcqueen ss10

Looking at Alexander Mcqueen's Spring collection I can see that he had been influenced by jellyfish for this collection for the prints and the silhouettes. The dresses have been digitally printed and finished with embellished details, which is similar to what I want to achieve. The prints have also been repeated and this is something that I have been working on. I absoloutley LOVE this collection, the prints and the colours....they are stunning!

Fabric Shopping

Friday 22nd Feb:

This morning five members of the class gave their designer presentations and it was really interesting to learn about designers that I knew little about previously. This is something that I will look forward to each week. I am also enjoying learning about where different fabrics come from and their uses as knowing about fabrics and their suitability for different garments is crucial during the design process. In the afternoon we went fabric shopping in our groups and I went to the Cloth House, John Lewis and Textile King. I collected samples from each of the shops which you can see below:

(left: 100% cotton £8/m, right: 100% silk £22/m)


After reseraching what fabrics Valli uses for Moncler Gamme Rouge I knew what I was looking for: luxury fabrics including silk, jacquard and organdy. Three of the colours that I have chosen are off white as I am planning to use print on my garments. I am not sure what some of the fabrics are that I collected samples of so I am looking forward to doing the burn test next week! I am going to Shepherd's bush in the morning to get some more samples.

Print Ideas

I am attending print workshops as part of my learning contract where I am working alongside this project. I have been playing in photoshop manipulating images of jellyfish so that they are not recognisable as jellyfish. I really like the first image and I am going to use different print techniques including screen printing and silk dyes to transfer my ideas onto fabric. Ideally I would like to digitally print my fabric!

Inverted Colours

Electric Jellyfish

Searching for electric jellyfish I came across these images of fireworks with the same name. I really like the vibrant, electric colours against the dark background and the images have given me the idea of inverting the colours of images which I have collected and manipulated and this is something I am going to work on next. Exciting!

Chain Mail

I could use chain mail as a surface pattern, I am looking forward to experimenting with different print/embellishment/fabric manipulation techniques.

Matadors

Here are some paintings of matador uniforms, I particularly like the layer of fabric over the shoulders to enhance them and this gives me ideas for my own outfit, I think these shoulders would look good on a coat. I also like the gold embellisment which gives the outfit a royal feel.

Fabric Research

49% viscose rayon
29% polyester
22% silk

POLYESTER

Polyester is not just a textile. It is made from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), the same material used to make plastic drink bottles. Many drink bottles are recycled by being reheated and turned into polyester fibres, which in addition to being an efficient use, also helps keep polymers out of landfills. Polyester is a plastic, invented in Britain in the early 1940s by two gentlemen working with synthetic polymers. In the 1950s, the new textile took off, becoming popular for its easy care, drape, and versatility.

In the United States, Dupont is one of the major manufacturers of PET and has been making Dacron polyester since 1950. Dupont has researched the properties of polyester extensively and devised a number of uses well beyond textiles, such as mylar and other polyester films. Dupont has also been driven to find ways to recycle polyester products to help keep costs down, as the base chemical substances that combine to form polyester are petroleum products.

To make polyester, ethylene glycol and dimethyl terephthalate are mixed together. The chemical reaction results in bisterephthalate. This substance is heated to 270° Fahrenheit (132° Celsius), where it reacts again to form polyethylene terephthalate. Like many chemical reactions that result in polymers, the polyester making process results in unhealthy off gassing, and protection should be worn while making PET. After synthesizing the polymers, the manufacturer decides what to do with them.

PET can be formed into plastics that can later be recycled. It is a highly malleable material and appears in all sorts of applications, from drink bottles to floppy disk liners. PET can also be used to make polyester fibre, which is used in auto upholstery, quilt batting, and clothing of all sorts.

Characteristics of Polyester:

Polyester fabrics and fibers are extremely strong.
Polyester is very durable: resistant to most chemicals, stretching and shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant.
Polyester is hydrophobic in nature and quick drying. It can be used for insulation by manufacturing hollow fibers.
Polyester retains its shape and hence is good for making outdoor clothing for harsh climates.
It is easily washed and dried.

SILK


China managed to keep the secret of silk for thousands of years, exporting the rare textile to Europe over trade routes. Eventually, silkworm eggs were smuggled out, and in the 13th century, Western production of silk began in Italy. This by no means brought the cost down, as the extensive amount of work required to make silk remained the same. Thirty thousand eggs can end up eating one ton of mulberry leaves and producing 12 pounds (5.5 kilograms) of silk.
Silk manufacture begins when female silkworms lay their eggs. A single silkworm may produce hundreds of tiny eggs, which are incubated until they hatch into larva. The larva must be kept warm and fed on mulberry leaves frequently throughout their brief lives. In four to six weeks, the larva have reached their maximum size and have mustered enough energy to pupate.
It is the pupation stage that produces silk, as the larva attach to branches and spin a shell around themselves. The shell is unique to insect pupation, formed by two spinnerets on the larva. The fluid they secrete is high in protein and forms a continuous thread, which is repeatedly wound to form a pod to mature in.

Unfortunately for the silkworm pupa, it is maturity that silk producers want to avoid. A small number of the larva are allowed to gestate into adults to carry on the lineage, while the rest are subjected to heat to kill the larva before they can begin to eat through the valuable silk thread. The pods are dipped into hot water to loosen the thread, which is then wound onto wheels. The dead larva are discarded.

Once raw silk has been wound onto wheels, it can be spun into a variety of different types of thread, depending upon the intended use. Crepe is made by twisting multiple strands of silk together in different directions, while tram is made by twisting one to two threads in the same direction. Organzine is formed by twisting multiple threads together, switching direction, and repeating the process until the end of the thread.

Most wearers are familiar with all forms of silk thread, with single threads being used for fine and sheer garments and crepe being used to create textured and wrinkly silks. Organzine is used for warp threads in weaving, and tram creates the weft, or filling. Silk can also be used in knit fabrics.

VISCOSE RAYON

Created from a combination of natural and man-made components, viscose can also be made into the more common form of rayon that is used for many types of textile products, including clothing. Viscose rayon has a silky appearance and feel, and also has the ability to breathe in a manner similar to cotton weaves. In addition to being an inexpensive material to use in lightweight clothing, viscose can also be used for such textiles as tablecloths, napkins, furniture slipcovers and sheeting. One of the more popular properties of viscose rayon is that the fabric tends to drape very well, which makes it ideal for use in simple curtains, as well as the perfect fabric to line more formal draperies.

While viscose breathes like cotton and has a feel that is pleasing to the touch, there are some drawbacks. One of the disadvantages to textile products made with viscose rayon is that the items will wrinkle very easily, which may lead to steady maintenance.

Another use of viscose is in the form of cellophane. The wood cellulose is treated with sodium hydroxide and then mixing the product with carbon disulfide, the resulting cellulose xanthe is dissolved into more sodium hydroxide. The product can then be ran through a spinning mechanism and out of a slit, resulting in the formation of the cellophane that can be used in the kitchen or as a clear wrap on plants, gift baskets, and other projects.

Concept Board

This is my first concept board. My theme is called Empower my Dreams because it is portraying powerful women through images of armour and images of an underwater fantasy world soften the look to create a contrast between the structural shapes of the armour and the peacefulness of dreams.

Daniel Sannwald

Fashion photography that caught my eye by Daniel Sannwald - Dazed and Confused. The first image is the jacket that I saw at the V&A:

Underwater Fantasy

Some images by fashion photographer Bruno Dayan:

Zena Holloway

Going back to original inspirations I have been thinking about how I can encorporate water into my theme. I have collected some images of mermaids - they are beautiful creatures with scales who live in the water so they relate well:
I have collected some images by my favourite photographer Zena Holloway who specialises in underwater photography. I think that her images are amazing:

Armour in Russian Art

I came across the art of a Russian artist who, similar to Albarran, uses armour in his artwork and also portrays a fantasy/dream world. I like how the women are portrayed as powerful yet beautiful and the harshness and strength of the armour against the peaceful surroundings. This is something that I want to put across with my theme-the idea of power through armour inspired shapes with a delicate aura of femininity through print/fabric manipulation.